why surfing

Surfing is about the best thing in the world. Not because I’m any good at it, but because it involves a beach, waves and freedom from everything I worry about. There just aren’t words to describe the feeling of floating in the cold Pacific, rain pelting, wind blowing, in complete peace. Getting there involves a drive I love, being there involves a connection to nature that I haven’t found anywhere else.

After, muscles tired, feeling happily sleepy, we often stop for something – a coffee, hot chocolate, a treat from the bakery, soup, a wrap, and on especially special days, fish tacos – such pleasures only adding to the surf experience. In the summer we camp, in the winter we rent. I love both.

Often on these weekends away I wake up early, go for a walk as everyone sleeps, capturing a little piece of paradise that few others see. The air's always a bit stiller, the ocean a bit slower, the early light playing a little differently off the waves and the trees, Leuk and I alone. Sometimes I take picutres, sometimes I just walk. This morning I started off in the pouring rain, under the arc of a rainbow, camera tucked under a corner of my jacket to keep it dry, outwalking the rain, stealing a few picutres of the clouds, the lighthouse, the rocky shore, and returning to a sleepy house with a sandy dog.

Weekends like this are my favourites. Stormy weather, the tourists have all gone home. A few glimpsing moments of sun through the clouds. Pant-legs soaked from walking in the rain, dripping gore-tex, puddles deep with mud, a dog that finds them all to run through. Big, fun surf. David and friends to share it with.

Two great days. I feel very lucky.

The on the other hand cat's seems a little pissed off that he was left alone again for a weekend... but he'll get over it. He took a good swipe at the dog as he passed by, but Leuk trudged on in ignorance, headed to his chair to curl up for a good after-beach snooze and snore. I think we're all tired. But it's a good tired.